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KatzCreationz, Mound City,
Mound City Kansas, 66056,
Socialization
Socialization refers to not just visiting and being friendly but teaching
your pup/dog how to react and behave in a given situation.  They
learn nearly everything from the world around them and a happy well
adjusted pup/dog has learned most of that from its owner.

When to start it
If you are lucky enough to have a good breeder (and this is a given if you are buying
one of my pups) then socialization has begun already.  Your breeder should be
handling the pups every day from birth until he/she arrives with you.  One of the first
things I start doing with my pups the very first week of their life is getting them used to
being turned over and held.  In the wild mom and other dominant dogs in the pack
would do this to teach them their place in the hierarchy or the pack.  This is one of the
ways I begin to learn about each pup in my litters as to who is timid and who is a bit
bossier.  They don't have to like being turned over and it's quite alright for them to cry
and have mom give you a good look and demand her pup back!
Pack Leader
Pack leader is sometimes confused with creating a submissive pup/dog.  This is not the
intended purpose by far.  Dogs are pack animals and look for a leader (and this is
YOUR role) where ever they live.  If there is no proven leader then the dog will (whether
or not its emotionally/mentally a good leader is irrelevant) assume that he/she is
needing to be the pack leader.  
By far it is easier to become a "pack leader" the
younger the pup/dog is.
 Establish it in many different ways.  Pack Leader provides the
food for the pack,  pack leader provides the discipline for the pack and pack leader
provides the rewards for the pack (good behavior = happy pack leader).
Comfortable in Case of Emergencies
One of the least done but most important things I tell new pup/dog owners is they need
to establish that it is OK and perfectly fine for you (pack leader) to touch and examine
your pup/dog.  
  • I encourage owners to touch the dogs feet, look between the toes
    (pups/dogs/animals don't like this naturally as that is their "control" of where they
    are in the world), hold onto the paws (gently but firmly) until the pup/dog submits
    and doesn't seem too concerned with it.  This becomes a great resource if your
    pup/dog ever steps in something like glass and you need to see how injured it is
    and help remove the object.  If your dog is already used to you handling the paw
    etc it is not nearly as traumatic as the first time you do this and the paw hurts.  
    Not to forget to mention nail trims are a routine need of any dog.  Save yourself
    some money and do them yourself if you have a cooperative pup/dog this is so
    much easier!
  • I ask owners to look inside their pup/dog's ears.  Again this isn't always
    easily accepted by the pup/dog because the ear is behind their line of vision and
    again that leaves them out of control.  However this is a good practice for you to
    be checking their ears often as cocker spaniels (like all dogs who's ears aren't
    erect) can be more prone to infections and the earlier you find they have one the
    better the response will be to treatment.  Also keep in mind if the pup/dog is
    having his/her ear handled for the very first time and it is already infected than its
    not just going to be fearful but painful and not agreeable to allowing you to do
    this.
  • I ask owners to regularly handle their pup/dogs mouth.  Lift the lips (gives
    you a good visual of the health of the teeth), open the mouth (asserts you are
    the one in control), touch their tongue.  As the owner and Pack Leader you
    should be able to give medicines if needed or remove items from the pup/dogs
    mouth without them questioning if you are allowed to.  This is handy if your
    pup/dog gets a hold of something it shouldn't have that could harm it or your
    favorite shoe?  Not to mention if your dog ever needs medication for something
    (heart worm preventative once a month?) you aren't freaking it out the first time
    you try.
  • I ask the owners (and family members especially children) to regularly
    turn the pup/dog onto its back (gently but firmly).  This is probably the
    hardest to do especially if not done regularly and from an early age on.  This
    establishes you are IN CONTROL and most pups/dogs wont enjoy this but that
    isn't nearly as important as that they trust you and do allow you to do it.  
    Afterwards they can get up and walk away and sulk if need be but they should
    allow you to do this.  Again in the wild mom and elders in the pack would do this
    to show them they are above them in the pack and that is important especially
    with children so that the child does not become something the pup/dog sees as a
    rival or below them.
Going out in Public
It is up to you to teach your pup/dog how to react and behave not just in the home but
out in public as well.  You should get your pup/dog accustomed to new sights, smells,
sounds and people (this includes other animals).  Obviously you need to do this
cautiously especially with a younger pup who isn't vaccinated fully.  However there is
nothing to say you can't take your pup for a ride in the car or even a trip to the park so
long as you are careful about exposing your pup to other animals/ people that can
transmit any disease/health concerns to your pup/dog.
 Never leave your dog in a car
unattended regardless
of how nice you think the weather is.  Even leaving water and
the window "cracked" is simply unacceptable.  Heat/Cold exposure can kill your pup/dog
a lot faster than you might think and then there is the chance of your pup/dog getting
stolen from your vehicle.  Sadly there aren't as strict laws about leaving pets in cars as
there are for children but the threat is the same if not greater.
Fearful!!!
If your pup/dog reacts fearfully to a new situation proceed slowly and try again.  If the
pup/dog doesn't want to meet this new person or go into a new place it is best not to
force the situation.  Forcing the pup to submit to a new encounter while fearful will just
compound the fear and potentially have it lose the trust it has in you.  Calm assertive
tones and encouragement are needed.  Be careful not to be overly excited or
enthusiastic as your tone will add to the intimidation for the pup/dog.
This website contains our photos and info about our Breeding Program and
some other related information.  We invite you to check out our website to
learn more about us and the cocker spaniels here.  Please use the links on the
left or upper portion of each page to navigate this website.

Kattery Kennels is owned and operated by Kat & Terry Reck and is not
affiliated with any other identity.  The graphics and material found within is the
sole property of Kattery Kennels and is watermarked and copyrighted to
KatzCreationz.  Requests for further information should be directed to
Info@KatteryKennels.com
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