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and white parti, chocolate and
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parti,sable parti
merle parti, Tri, Tri color,
choc tri, tricolor, parti tri,
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Puppies for Sale, Cocker
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for sale,
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State
Cockers from OZ, OZ
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and Lollipops, Wigglez,
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Mischief, Miss Muppet,
MissMuppet, Lil Miss
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Trey,
Adobo Party Trey, Tre,
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CaptainRezQ, Prez,
PrezzieBear, Toby, Tober,
Smorez, GrahamCracker
Smorez,
Irish, Irish Blessing, Celtic
Jewel, Jewel, Stonehaven's
BamBam, Bam Bam,
BamBam, Emmy, Emmet,
Emmette, Emi,
Bandito, Bandi, Bandito
Gatito, Sugar, Sugarkitty,
Michael, Mikey, MichaelKitty,
Mew, MewMew, Princess
MewMew,
Apple, Pear, Pierre,
PierrePear, Smokey,
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Kat Reck, Terry Reck,
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KatzCreationz, Mound City,
Mound City Kansas, 66056,
Vaccines & Vet Visits
The following information is not intended as a medical manual or to substitute as
seeking answers from a medical professional.  All of these questions can be answered
by calling your local vet.  Do not just take my word as gospel, verify the information
please as everyone has a different protocol they follow and find acceptable.
Vaccines
  • Vaccines are something that are not just controversial in animals but in humans
    as well.  Everyone has their own view on them and each has a multitude of
    reasons behind it.  I strongly encourage you to research and find what you feel
    you are the most comfortable with.
  • Vaccines are given with the intention to prevent your pup/dog from getting the
    illness that is being vaccinated against.  (ie: Parvo vaccines is to help prevent
    your pup/dog from getting the parvo virus).
  • No vaccine is 100% effective all the time.  It is however my opinion that being
    vaccinated is a better way to go than not being vaccinated in a pup/dog.
What kind and when to get them.
  • My vaccination protocol for pups/dogs is one I have developed with my
    veterinarian based on understanding a maturing pup's immune system.  
With that in mind we set up the following time to begin and booster a puppy's set of
vaccinations.
  • DHPPC (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo, Parainfluenza and Corona) is initially
    given at 6 weeks of age.  This is then repeated every 4-6 weeks until the
    pup/dog is 4 months of age.  A year after this 4 month of age vaccine the
    DHPPC is boostered.
  • Bordetella is given at 10 weeks of age (along with the 2nd DHPPC
    vaccine) and boosted again in 4 weeks.  This then becomes a yearly
    vaccination.
  • Rabies is given at 4-6 months of age and is good for 1 year according to
    the State of Kansas.  A year later the 2nd Rabies vaccine can be given
    and would then be recognized as "good" for 3 years according to Kansas.  
    (this varies from state to state and you need to check your local laws).
  • Usually our adult dogs are vaccinated yearly for DHPPC and Bordetella until they
    are 3-5 years old at which point instead of just automatically repeating a booster
    for them we have a titer run.  A titer measures the amount of antibodies and
    gages the effectiveness of previous vaccinations on current "immunity"
    response.  If the titer shows adequate levels we do not vaccinate that year but
    instead will run a titer again a year later.
  • All of our puppies and new additions are examined and vaccinated initially by my
    veterinarian.  This could be considered more costly to do then giving them myself
    (Other than Rabies in Kansas you can buy vaccines over the counter) but I feel
    in the long run it is wiser to have a vet examine them and find them healthy than
    to only have my evaluation of their fitness.  
  • Keeping that in mind we do make sure our vet examines them regardless of their
    needing vaccines every year.  
  • They do receive mini exams by me however every time they are groomed.  I
    check their pulse and listen to their heart and lungs with a stethescope as well as
    physically palpate their musculoskeletons for lumps and bumps etc.  It pays to
    have had 9 years experience as a veterinary nurse.
  • Ears get checked weekly and cleaned as needed.  Dog breeds that have ears
    that are not erect can be prone to infections.  However other than 1 of our
    rescues (Prez) who has chronic ear infections mostly due to the condition he
    spent his earlier years in none of our dogs have ever had an ear infection
    (neither have the kitties LOL).
Store bought or Veterinarian Given?
  • At your home you might be wondering what is the best way to go?  Giving the
    vaccines yourself (thus saving some money) or having a veterinarian give them.
  • I strongly encourage you to allow a vet to do them so that you can get your
    pup/dog examined at the same time and have more confidence that your pup/dog
    is healthy.
  • If you do decide to purchase and give a vaccine yourself please read about that
    and research how to prior to buying it.  One of the silliest but most common
    problems that occurs is people do not realize you have to refrigerate a vaccine
    so it does not become altered and worthless.  
  • If you have confidence that your local pet/feed store has handled them properly
    and stored them at the appropriate temperature properly and that you can give
    an injection properly you might do ok with it all.
Vet Visits
  • How Often?
  • In the contract I have all new pup/dog owners sign it requires them to have
    the pup/dog examined within 72 hours of arrival.  This is so that your vet
    can establish a good baseline of what your pup/dog is when healthy and
    also to ensure that he/she is.
  • Other than vaccination and initial visits once the pup/dog is older it is still
    recommended you have them examined at least yearly.
  • What makes a good vet.
  • I have worked with several dozen vets in my short lifetime (I am in my early
    30s) both as an employee/coworker and as a client.  The following is what I
    look for in selecting a veterinarian.
  1. Easy to communicate with.  Not only are they available easily to discuss
    questions/concerns (who wants a vet who never is able to talk to you?) but
    the discuss the details of my pets with me on a level that I understand.  I
    don't want a vet who talks down to me and treats me as an idiot nor do I
    want one that can only talk over my level of understanding as that doesn't
    do me any good either.
  2. Educated and continues to keep current on medical advances.  I
    like a vet that has gone to school in the US mostly because I know
    firsthand how tough they are to get into vs a university that accepts
    anyone so long as they have the money.  I also want one who keeps up
    with current advances and while they might not offer the newest trends can
    at least discuss them with me and refer me to someone who might offer
    that service (such as accupuncture, chiropractics etc) or new medicines.
  3. I insist they have a clean facility and a courteous staff.  Having been
    a veterinary nurse I know more what to look for and while older practices
    might be more crowded for space (smaller buildings) they should still be
    clean and have modern or well kept equipment.  As busy as we always
    were a clean table and floor is a basic!  Dirt, blood, etc is never
    acceptable.  I also know that I will be dealing with the vet's support staff
    (receptionists, techs etc) often since the Doctor is usually the busiest and I
    want to have confidence in them that they can communicate and be an
    advocate for my pup/dog/kitty/cat.  We all can have bad days but if
    someone is repeatedly rude or abrasive that does not instill confidence in
    me that they are doing well by my animal when I am not there.
  4. I have also discovered that the more expensive is not always the
    best but you do usually get what you pay for at the same time which
    means the cheapest isn't always the way to go either.
  • Where to find a Vet?
  • When I move into an area the first thing I do is ask my neighbors who they
    use and why.
  • I also look in the phone book and call several to get an idea of prices and
    what they offer.  I ask the staff who they use (especially if there is more
    than one doc on staff).
  • I have even been known to ask the person who answers the phone what
    kinds of pets they and the doctors own.  I dont need a great exotic animal
    vet for a cocker spaniel! LOL
  • Questions to ask.
  • Always be sure that whatever you are there for you ask as many questions
    as you can think of.  It is the staff's job to answer them but also your job to
    ask the questions.  A good vet/office has the attitude that no question is a
    stupid question, unless it is not asked!
  • Here are some basics that I ask at routine exam/vaccine time.
  1. Is my pup/dog healthy?  At a good weight?
  2. Is the coat/skin healthy?
  3. Do the heart and lungs sound good?
  4. Anything going around that I need to be aware of (like a break out of
    kennel cough)?
  5. How are the teeth?
  • If my pup/dog/kitty/cat is unhealthy and at the vet for something specific I
    ask as much as I can about what they find on the exam and what the
    options are for treating it.
  1. What exactly does "insert illness/condition" mean?
  2. How do you know that?  What are the signs?
  3. What do you normally do to treat it?  Are there any side effects?
  4. Long term what does this mean?
  5. How soon before I can see some improvement?
  6. What do I look for to know if things are getting worse?
  7. Will this affect anyone else @ home (me, other people/pets)?
  8. When do you need to see my pup/dog/kitty/cat again?
some other related information.  We invite you to check out our website to
learn more about us and the cocker spaniels here.  Please use the links on the
Kattery Kennels is owned and operated by Kat & Terry Reck and is not
affiliated with any other identity.  The graphics and material found within is the
sole property of Kattery Kennels and is watermarked and copyrighted to
KatzCreationz.  Requests for further information should be directed to
Info@KatteryKennels.com
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